Break Point Essay Research Paper Surfing the
Break Point Essay, Research Paper
Surfboarding the interrupting moving ridges on Mayport Beach gives a feeling I will ne’er bury. I was 12 old ages old when my household and I lived on the shore of a little town known as Mayport. Two back-to-back old ages we dwelled in our cosy small beach house watching the glimmer ocean through our Windowss. Everyday I would take the way over the flaxen dunes, dodging the prickly goad and the crisp cati, onto the aureate white beach. I walk toward the shoreline seeking the dirt for any hoarded wealths the sand may keep for me. As I look out, my eyes see nil but the glasslike H2O disturbed merely by moving ridges interrupting on the shore. I drop my board in the cool H2O and get down to paddle out into the eternal ocean. As I approach the breakage point, I duck dive under the cool salty H2O so as non to be pushed back by the force of the on hotfooting moving ridges. I paddle beyond the breakage point and sit on my board patiently waiting for the following moving ridge to pick me up. While waiting I notice porpoises turn overing in and out of the H2O, free as can be. The warm air current brings an olfactory property of salt and a mist of H2O. Waves begin to turn over through the H2O as I lay on my board padd
ling forward. Closer and larger they grow until their power and force begins to push me through the water as I lay on my board paddling forward. I feel the force of the wave behind me as I shoot up to my feet, feeling the wax grip my feet. As the waves roars behind me, I duck down low and enter the barrel. Tilting the board forward, I emerge from the tunnel of water and end up a distance away fro the tube. I begin to slow down so I cut my board back to the barrel and throw it forward again, so I am again positioned in front of the pipe. After the wave finally dwindles down in the shallow water I pull my board over the lip to the back of the wave and begin paddling out to face another challenge. As the day begins to wane I ride my last wave and start toward home. Heading up the beach I notice sand crabs scurrying into their holes for safety. I step up onto the dunes and turn around to bask in the ocean’s beauty. The sun sets and the sky glows a pinkish red. The beach is empty as far as the eye can see and the seagulls dance in the crystal clear sky. Hearing the voice of my mother calling for dinner, I begin my journey back thanking God for such a majestic wonderful place.